My first impressions of Dalian – Written by Paul Yeandle
As I sit in a hotel room in Kuala Lumpur, a cosmopolitan melting pot of a city in Southeast Asia, it strikes me that it was 8 years ago that I first arrived in Asia and I have been travelling on and off for most of that time. I get excited by new cities or countries, new dishes to sample, new people to meet and sights to explore. Dalian for me was no exception and as expected it was significantly different from our other office locations in China and offered another version of China to explore.
Dalian, was a city to which I hadn’t had the pleasure to visit on previous jaunts around China. Located just a stone’s throw from Beijing (note to those with the travel bug: – I took a really convenient 45 minute flight to the Capital for around £30/300RMB) and just across from the Korean peninsula. Japanese and Russian influences are also notable in Dalian – evident in the large number of Russian & Japanese; restaurants, architectural styles, businesses operating and travellers visiting.
Living in Chengdu, I have a bias for all things West China but I was charmed by Dalian – it’s clean, is situated along the sea providing some of the best beaches in China, has chronic blue skies and some seriously good seafood! Moreover in a few days I was genuinely sad to leave! Often clients or friends from home ask me; what’s China like? Well that varies considerably of course from tough farming villages where toothless elderly people will stare at you as they herd water buffalo through rice paddies, to high flying cities where young Chinese glued to their cell phones, sip Starbucks and drive German luxury cars. China, as you are probably aware, is a land of contrasts making travel between regions and cities a refreshing and enjoyable change from where you live or work.
As I arrived at the small but well organised airport I quickly noticed the fresh sea air and bright blue skies. Something which I will admit is noticeable in its absence in Chengdu. Taking a taxi downtown, I was suddenly greeted with extremely tall skyscrapers, large grass-covered public squares and the cranes of the shipping port in the middle distance. (Dalian is China’s northernmost warm water port, at the tip of the Liaodong Peninsula). In 2006, Dalian was also named China’s most livable city by China Daily and I could already see why.
My hotel was located close to Zhongshan Square (中山官场) a delightful little square with transportation links to the whole city all around. The square itself was designed in the 19th century by the Russians and then completed by the Japanese during their occupation in the 20th century.
Just down the road from Zhongshan Square close to several top 5* hotels and a whole host of tasty Japenese, Chinese and Western eateries a tram thundered through the main road. I have only seen this in Hong Kong and I suddenly felt like I was more in San Francisco than Dalian. It really was a fascinating introduction to the city.
During our business trip to Dalian we got some great introductions to the city and I was impressed by the cities warmth to a business setting and the eagerness to help and direct us in the right direction (even going as far as suggesting excellent restaurants and bars). You can tell a lot about a city by its people and they were warm, helpful and genuinely interested in what we had to say.
Food & Drink
Seafood restaurants are everywhere and if you like picking your dinner from large fish tanks – you are in luck! Some of the best Japanese food in China is also in abundance with prices more modest than elsewhere in Asia. Local delicacies and food from all over China is easily available, as is a ton of BBQ joints to combat that post-drinking fatigue whilst a nice selection of Western food throughout the city offer expats a nice taste of home. My favourite was a great little French bistro called Le Ginkgo which has a great little roof terrace – perfect for a coffee / dinner or a cocktail under the moonlight.
Watering holes are all over the city and you can even play indoor golf while drinking at the bar in the Shangri-La Hotel. If you are looking for a quiet drink or a more late night session Dalian has numerous opportunities. Including a bar called Fight Club where you can enjoy a drink while Thai Boxing matches happen right in front of you – surely a first in China!
As you can probably tell Dalian made a great impression on me and I am very much looking forward to returning to Dalian in the future and it certainly proved to be another one of China’s secrets. Scratch under the surface of the city and you find great food, wonderful people and an architecture and history from various occupations which delight the senses!